Friday, 1 January 2021

Husaria - the Polish Hussars of the 17th Century (part 2)

In this blog post I continue the description of building my Polish army for the 1620s, starting with the famous ‘Winged’ Hussars.  In this part I get on to painting. (See Part 1 - here.)

Polish Winged Hussars looking awesome!

I am by no means an expert painter and so will not go in to too much detail, but will instead talk through some of the processes I used, and any tips I picked up along the way.

The horses were black undercoated, as already described in Part 1, and painted separately from the riders. Not much to report. I used triads of browns for most of the horses, with a grey added in for good measure.  I went for bright saddle cloths but resisted the temptation to try and spruce these up with any free hand detail. I reckoned on neat stripes looking better than poorly executed detailing.  After the paint was throughly dried I brushed on gloss varnish as a protective layer. 

Foundry Hussar horses ready for their varnish.

I also like to use a black undercoat on 17th century cavalrymen as I find it a good base for armour, and it also helps hide mistakes / missed bits! In my previous TYW armies I kept armour very dark as it was typical in the West to blacken armour to protect it from rust.  I made the Hussars armour brighter as this seems to have been more typical for them to not blacken armour (I guess they had more people available to shine their armour!).  For my first unit I chose several different shades of red for the Hussars’ clothing and cloaks, to make them look part of the same unit, without giving them a uniform.  Red was considered a higher status colour, and so popular with the noble Hussar companions. Yellow boots or shoes were also a must-have fashion accessory and so I used a Yellow Ochre for these on the figures which was a good match for the pictures in the Osprey books. 

Foundry and TAG riders with armour and flesh colours done. Numbering is to match riders to mounts.

One item on the figures that was a ‘first’ for me was the animal pelts.  These were very popular for the wealthier Hussars, and leopard skins seem to have been most popular.  It was not unusual to make fake leopard skins by adding spots to pelts from other animals.  I had never painted leopard skins before and so I resorted to searching YouTube for a suitable tutorial.  I found one (link) which was nice and straight forward, and I was quite pleased with the result.  Here are the steps I used. (All colours are from Vallejo Model Color range.)

First 131 Orange Brown as a base, leaving a gap at the edge.

Random ‘splodges’ added in 169 Black.

Base coat highlighted with 121 Yellow Ochre.

Splodges highlighted with 140 Flat Brown.

Splodges further highlighted with 121 Yellow Ochre

Edges painted with 124 Iraqi Sand.

Edges highlighted with 5 Ivory and 4 Off White.

I was quite pleased with the result.  At a wargaming, arm’s length, distance it looks like a good approximation of a leopard skin, although I don’t think it would fool a real leopard.  On the basis that many of the cloaks worn by the Hussars were ‘fake’, this might actually be a point in my favour! 

One other discovery perhaps worth pointing out was painting reds.  Although I have been a fan of black undercoating for a long time I have always struggled with reds (and yellows!) on top of black. As I wanted to use quite a lot of reds here I decided to investigate the Games Workshop (GW) paint ranges.  Those 40k Spaces Marines come in some very bright colours and so perhaps they have a trick or two up their sleeve?  I often catch the GW painting tutorials on YouTube, and one of their presenters, has recently gone solo (Duncan Rhodes, link) with his own tutorials.  These are all super easy to follow with all of the steps layed out very clearly.  After watching a few vids about some very red Space Marines I invested in a few of the GW red paints.  GW have a paint system which includes ‘Base’ colours, to give a nice opaque covering (even over black!) and ‘Layer’ colours, to highlight the Base colours.  The two red Base colours I have used give really good base coverage, even over black.  (You’ll have to excuse the strange names which I understand are used for the sake of creating a unique IP.) Khorne Red (Base) with Wazdakka Red (Layer) gives a nice carmine red odour.  Mephiston Red (Base) with Evil Sunz (Layer) gives a nice bright red.  I am pleasantly impressed and will be using these a lot, I suspect, in my Polish army.  

Lances made using 80mm brass spears (from Warlord) and with a small bead added to each. Undercoated with black spray primer. 

These reds certainly came in handy when it came to the lances.  These are typically shown as painted red, often with patterns.  I decided to keep the lances red, but fairly plain, with just a small detail on the hand guard.  (I will try to work up to stripes etc. for future units.) I painted and varnished the lances separately before attaching them to the figures.  One of the striking features of the hussars are the brightly coloured, swallow tailed lance pennons.  I bought some sets of these from Battle Flag (link).  I cut these out with a modelling blade and then glued them on to the lances. 


Once dry, I painted the edges of the flags (very important!).

Lance pennons and flag attached, with edges to be touched up.

Final steps were to glue the riders on to the mounts, matt varnish over the complete model, and then gluing the lances on to the riders. It was great to finally add the lances; the figures seemed to come to life with the lances in their hands!

A finished Hussar with his lance added.

To complete the unit I followed my normal basing approach.  The figures were glued, two figures to each 50mm wide and 60mm deep MDF base, from Warbases (link). The bases were then covered in an earth coloured paint and PVA glue mix, and sharp sand sprinkled on to the mixture while it was still wet.  Once the PVA mix was dry it was dry brushed with a beige colour, and then static grass and tufts were glued on with more PVA.

Hussars glued to MDF bases from Warbases.

With a final fanfare of trumpets my first unit of Hussars was completed!

The finished unit charging in to action!
I really like the impression of the swirling lance pennons.

There they go.

Drone shot!



It feels pretty good to have the first unit done.  I realise that I have made a bit of a ‘song and dance’ over one unit of cavalry, but I really enjoyed putting it together, and trying out some new techniques.  I’m also pleased that the unit looks like I’d hoped it would, and should give a good impression of a 1620s Hussar formation.

Next in the painting queue is another unit of Hussars.  I look forward to pushing through a bit faster on this one, using all of the lessons learnt on this first unit. 

Until next time!

Andy @ FoGH.

 



Wednesday, 23 December 2020

Husaria - the Polish Hussars of the 17th Century (part 1)

This blog post describes the start of my 1620s Polish and Lithuanian Commonwealth army with the famous Polish ‘Winged’ Hussars. This post I will cover: little bit of historical background, my purchase of some figures, and the preparation of the figures for painting.

Battle of Kircholm 1610, by Wojciech Kossak

First advanced the hussar squadron of the marshal himself, well armoured, and so imposing that any king might be proud of such troops. Only nobles of the mountains served in this squadron, chosen men of equal size; their armor was of bright squares inlaid with bronze, gorgets with the image of the Most Holy Lady of Chenstohova, round helmets with steel rims, crests on the top, and at the side wings of eagles and vultures, on their shoulders tiger and leopard skins, but on the officers wolf skins, according to custom.” From ‘The Deluge’ by Henryk Seinkiewicz

Polish ‘Winged’ Hussars must be the most stunning of troop types for Renaissance wargamers.  Armoured and lance armed, elite cavalry, they formed the core of Polish and Lithuanian Commonwealth armies for over two centuries.  With brightly coloured and flowing lance pennants, and with their iconic eagle feathered ‘wings’, these were the poster pin-up cavalry for me as a teenager.  When I started wargaming, in the 1970s and 80s, renaissance wargame rules used Winged Hussars on their covers, and even Games Workshop payed homage to them with their Warhammer Kislev Winged Lancers.

Games Workshop’s “Kislev Winged Lancers” a fantasy tribute to the Polish Hussars. 

Raising my own miniature units of Polish Hussars has been a wargaming ‘itch’ that has taken a long time for me to scratch. When I recently started my 28mm Thirty Years War (TYW) forces to refight Lutzen (1632) I was just thinking of the conflicts that played out in Western Europe.  However, researching Gustav Adolph’s Swedish army kept prompting me that he had ‘cut his teeth’ fighting the Poles before he came to Germany in 1630.  With Lutzen ‘refought’ I immediately started forming plans for a Polish army, including the glorious Hussars, that I could use as new enemies for my Swedish forces.

Hussar formation at the Battle of Klushino (1610), painting by Szymon Boguszowicz, 1620

The Polish Hussars were originally light cavalry, evolving in the 16th century from similarly equipped light horsemen in Hungary. As time went by their equipment got heavier and they replaced the heavily armoured Polish ‘knights’ as the main strike force of Polish armies.  The Hussars became the most important component of Polish armies, and the preeminent cavalry of Eastern Europe.  The Hussars’ equipment and horses were expensive, and their ranks were filled with Polish and Lithuanian nobles, and their retainers. 

“Of these horsmen, some are called Hussari, who are armed with long speares, a shield, a Carbine or short gunn, and two short swords, one by the horsmans syde, the other fastned vnder the left syde of his sadle.” Fynes Moryson describes the Polish cavalry in the 1590s.

Entry of the wedding procession of Sigismund III Vasa into Cracow (detail) 1605

There is a lot of superficial information available, especially on the internet, covering the Polish Hussars, which is great to get an overview and some historical eye-candy.  If you want to delve a bit deeper then luckily Osprey have an excellent volume, in their Warrior series, that covers them in some detail (https://ospreypublishing.com/polish-winged-hussar-1576-1775-pb).  There is also an even more detailed treatise available in Polish, ‘Husaria’ by Radoslaw Sikora, often available on Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/8324054685/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YI63FbDD4S0BQ).  These are both lovely books, and worth reading even if you only have a passing interest in the subject.  

When collecting an army I like to base it on a particular historical campaign, and may be also a particular battle.  This helps me define some parameters for the force, and gives me some focus to my research. As I wanted to use my TYW Swedish army as the opponent for the Poles, I decided on the campaign in Prussia in the late 1620s.  Between 1626 and 1629 Gustav Adolph, and his Swedish army, invaded the Polish territory of Prussia in an attempt to take control of Gdansk.  The battle in this campaign that tempted me most was Tczew (or Dirschau in German) in 1627, where there are large clashes of Polish and Swedish cavalry.  (I have a blog page with some ideas for those wanting to research 17th century Polish armies here link.)

Helion have just published a book specifically on the Polish army for this campaign against the Swedes.  It is called Despite Destruction, Misery and Privations and is written by Michał Paradowski.   I am sure this will become the standard work on this period for the Poles (https://www.helion.co.uk/military-history-books/despite-destruction-misery-and-privations-the-polish-army-in-prussia-during-the-war-against-sweden-1626-1629.php).

Helion’s new title on the Polish army in the 1620s.

While searching for a particular campaign and battle, I had already (perhaps impetuously!) ordered some figures.  I started with figures from Warlord (link), The Assault Group (link) and Foundry (link).  All of these are metals.  I already have lots of figures from their 17th century ranges in my TYW armies, and so I was hopeful that their Polish ranges would also mix together ok. 

My first excited purchases of Polish Winged Hussars - Warlord, TAG  and Foundry.

From reading the books above, my idea of what would look right for 1620s hussar units began to form:
  • Exact equipment would have varied to some degree in each company, or ‘banner’ of Hussars.  A Rotmistrz was responsible for the recruitment of each Hussar banner. The nobles recruited in to the Hussars were known as ‘companions’. Each companion brought a retinue of followers, who would have formed the rear ranks of the banner in battle. The companions lavished their wealth on luxurious equipment and also equipped their retainers. So, some variety in the figures used to represent my miniature banners, would feel right.     
  • The best equipped Hussars had back and breast plate armour (often with strips of plates), a helmet with nose guard and ‘lobster’ style neck guard, and chain mail sleeves with chain mail thigh protection.
  • The Hussars would wear cloaks, with the best equipped having animal pelts such as leopard, wolf, or even tiger.
  • The Hussars’ most striking piece of equipment was the ‘wings’ of vulture or eagle feathers.  However there is a lot of uncertainty about how these were shaped and worn, how they evolved over time, and whether they were worn in particular battles at all.  I have chosen to represent wings as attached to the rear of the saddles, and being worn singularly, sometimes in pairs, or not at all by the poorer Hussars.
  • The Hussars iconic weapon was the long lance. This was longer than the typical lance used in the west, and had a distinctive ball shaped guard above the grip.  The painted lances, with their long colourful pennons, were probably distinct for each banner of Hussars.
The Warlord Hussars (link) are in very dynamic poses.  There are available in boxes of eight figures, or packs of three random models.  The horses and riders are quite distinctive, and I don’t think they will mix in the same unit with the other ranges.  Their equipment makes them look better suited to the later 17th century, such as for the famous 1683 defence of Vienna against the Ottoman Turks. The shapes of the wings (bending forward) are also perhaps better suited to the late 17th century. (The wings would be fairly easy to prune back to a shape more suitable for the earlier 17th century.)

Polish Hussars from Warlord Games. Brass lances much appreciated! 

The Assault Group (link) are very nice models and have three different packs, each of three figures,  available; command, levelled lance and upright lance.  The armour and equipment looks fine for the 1620s (lots of chainmail for the arms etc.) and the wings are also perfect for the early 17th century.  The packs I received seemed to have been a bit mean with them wings, but TAG do sell the wings in separate packs if you need more. The lances seem a bit short, and I’m not keen on this bendy metal type.  

Polish Hussars from The Assault Group.

The Foundry (link) models are certainly the oldest sculpts of the three companies, as they look like the work of the fabulous Perry twins from when they sculpted Foundry figures. There are three Hussar packs, each of three figures; command, upright lance and levelled lance, and also a ‘general’ command pack of three figures.  The figures look fine for the 1620s with plenty of chainmail in evidence.  The wings are of the bent forward type and so I will be pruning these back to match the TAG wings.  You do get plenty of wings though.  The lances are, like  TAG, of the bendy metal variety and so I will replace these. Being quite old sculpts these are perhaps large  25mm rather than small 28mm.   

Foundry Polish Hussars and cavalry command.

The TAG and Foundry Hussars fitted this 1620s feel perfectly. The TAG and Foundry riders can also be mixed in the same units.  Their horses however don’t mix in the same unit so well, in my view.  On this basis I have decided to form my Hussars units in three ways:
  • Foundry horses, with a mix of Foundry and TAG riders.
  • TAG horses, with a mix of Foundry and TAG riders.
  • Warlord horse and riders. (The Warlord units will be slightly anachronistic, but they are just too nice to leave out!) 
With the research and planning done I got to work on the ‘filing and chipping’ of the metal figures.  I also needed to carry out some minor conversion to the figures to have the wings saddled mounted, rather then mounted on the riders’ backs.  Some green stuff modelling putty was used to make any repairs required to cloaks and animal skins.

Some simple conversion work to move the wings to be saddle mounted rather than than on the riders’ backs.

I have typically glued horse and rider together at this point, after cleanup.  I decided to paint the Hussars separately from their horses, and glue together after painting.  I primed / undercoated the figures with Halfords (a cheap UK car and bike parts supplier) black spray primer. I then realised that I didn’t have a method to hold the horseless riders for painting.  I came up with a perhaps slightly over-fiddly method.  I drilled a small hole with a pin vice in the groin of each rider (ouch!). I then put some 0.5mm metal rod in to some corks I had lying around, and then PVA glued the riders on to the rods. These were a bit wobbly and unsteady. I therefore glued UK 2 pence pieces under the corks and found some magnetic sheeting strips (UK 2p are magnetic) to put on my painting tray.  This works ok so far - but seems a right faff!  I had to number the riders and horses so that I could remember which rider was fitted to sit on which horse (they were not interchangeable after the chipping and conversion stage).



I also decided to leave the lances separate to the figures during painting.  This would make handling the figures easier, as the lances are a really long 80mm, and it also make it easier to attach the pennons while the lances are separate.  The Foundry and TAG figures come with white metal lances.  As mentioned above, I’m not a fan of these as they are very easy to bend during games, and then very difficult to great straight again. Warlord use brass rods with shaped points for their lances and so I copied this for the figures from TAG and Foundry. (Warlord also sell these brass lances separately as “Metal Pikes” - see link.) Warlord have some really nice white metal, shaped ‘balls’ to place on the lances as the hand guards in their box set.  For the other manufacturers’ figures I used some tiny beads I found at home. I primed the lances, all stuck in to a piece of cardboard, at the same time as the figures. 

Small beads added to brass 80mm ‘lances’.

As well as building Hussars to form the units in my Polish army, I also had a crack at making a figure from my wargaming history.  Anyone familiar with the Wargames Research Group (WRG) Renaissance wargames rules will recognise the illustration below on the left. This picture graced the front cover of the second version of the WRG army list book that came out in 1984 (no fancy full colour covers back in the 80s!).  I spent many, many hours perusing the lists in this book, and have a always liked this picture. I made the figure on the right by making a slight change to a Foundry Polish commander.  I added the horse crest (an off cut from an altered Hussar wing), changed the position of the horse wing, and cut down the wing.




The back cover of the WRG army lists described the front cover illustration as follows:


I am sure that this figure will make a fine addition to a Polish command stand.

In the next part of this series I will cover the painting of my first unit of Hussars. 

Until next time!

Andy @ FoGH

 


Friday, 20 November 2020

Old Blue And Other Colours

These 2 brigades were of the flower of the Army: old souldiers of 7 or 8 yeeres service (the most of them) and whom the King had there placed, for that he most relied on them.” Williams Watts describing the Old Blue and Yellow Brigades at the Battle of Lutzen.

This blog post looks at my approach to representing the Swedish infantry brigades of the Thirty Years War, in partiocular those at Lutzen 1632, using the Pike and Shotte rule system from Warlord Games.

The Swedish ‘colour’ infantry brigades, with their elaborate ‘squadron’ formations, are for me an iconic part of the Swedish army in this period.  I want to be able to reflect these formations, and explore their tactics, in my miniature versions of these brigades.

Here is a brief background to the Swedish infantry brigades of the period. 

(The Osprey “The Army of Gustavus Adolphus: Infantry (Men-at-Arms)” by Richard Brzezinski is an excellent introduction to this topic.) 

As Gustav Adolph’s main field army evolved during the 1620s key infantry regiments became known by the colour of their flags as well as their colonels’ names; hence we get the Yellow Regiment, the Green regiment, the Red regiment and so on.  Regiments, which were mainly an administrative formation, were grouped in to brigades for battles.  The brigades were named after their senior Oberst (Colonel) who commanded the brigade, or more simply the senior regiment’s colour.  So you have the Yellow brigade, the Green brigade etc. (It is worth noting that the Swedish army was recruited from across Europe, and at Lutzen the majority were German, but also with many Scots, and other nationalities, as well as Swedes.)

Gustav Adolph experimented and evolved how these brigades were organised as well as the tactics and formations used on the battlefield.  On the battlefield a brigade was broken down in to units, of around 500 men, called squadrons. Regiment strengths varied so that a brigade may be made up of one strong regiment, or a number of smaller regiments, so that it had enough men to form the required number of squadrons.  Each squadron in the brigade was made up pike and musket armed troops, with the ideal ratio of muskets to pikes generally increasing over time.

This picture shows a simplified view of a three squadron brigade.  This assumes a ratio of one pike to one musket.  As time went on squadrons would have had less pike and/or more musket.  Surplus musketeers were formed in to a reserve within the brigade, or were detached from the brigade and became ‘commanded shot’ supporting the cavalry, or carrying out some other separate function.  Using the three squadron brigade as a model, and using the quite detailed information available on the strengths of brigades, with the ratio of musket to pike for the Swedish infantry at Lützen I set about planning my toy soldier version of the Swedish infantry.  (See Osprey Campaign #68 Lützen 1632, by Richard Brzezinski for more info.)

My Old Blue Brigade


Here is how I formed my version of the (Old) Blue Brigade.  This brigade was made up of a single regiment, the Old Blue regiment, that was one of Gustav Adolph’s oldest regiments, recruited mainly with Germans. The epitaph ‘old’ was used informally to distinguish the regiment from a more recently formed Blue regiment, that was sometimes called the New Blue regiment, or the Swedish regiment, as it was recruited from native Swedes. The Old Blue regiment served from 1624 and was finally disbanded in 1652. 

It seems likely that the regiment had blue uniforms as well as blue flags.  I chose to show the unit in a variety of shades of blue to reflect different issues of cloth being provided to the troops over time.  Uniforms for the Swedish infantry were at the whim of their colonel and the availability of cloth where ever the regiment was serving.  

Although quite a strong regiment, as it formed a brigade on its own, it was one of the smaller brigades at Lutzen. It also had a roughly one to one proportion of pikes to muskets.  I therefore form the brigade as three ‘small’ pike units, and three ‘small’ musket units.  Each squadron in the brigade is made up of one pike unit and one musket unit.  There is also a light gun model and crew to represent the three pounder guns that were integral to each regiment.  

In Pike and Shotte (P&S) units are classified in to three basic size categories: small, regular and large.  At the Friends of General Haig club we tend to use 8 figures in two ranks for small infantry units, 12 figures for regular, and 16 for large.  So for Lutzen this means that the Old Blue Brigade of around 1,100 men scales down in my miniature version of the brigade to roughly 50 figures, with each figure therefore representing about 20 men.

During the battle of Lutzen the Blue brigade were attacked and roughly handled by Imperial cuirassiers.  I therefore have the pike in the ‘charge for horse’ pose.  (A bit of a pain with the long pikes, but I think it looks great!). The pike are a mixture of Foundry and Warlord, and the musket mostly Warlord, with the odd Foundry or Perry officer mixed in.  The light gun is from Warlord.


To control this complex formation in P&S games each brigade has its own Commander, and so this circular command base represents Oberst Winckel, the regiment and brigade commander.  Winckel and one ensign are Foundry, and the other ensign Warlord. All flags from Flags of War.

To bolster his cavalry formations, Gustav Adolph deployed small units of muskets and light guns from his foot brigades, with the cavalry.  Such detached musketeers were known as “Commanded Shot”.  In P&S I use small units of musket with a light guns to represent these supports for the cavalry.  This unit of commanded shot represents men coming from the Blue Brigade.  This units is mostly Warlord.  I like the kneeling and standing figures showing a salvo being fired, and the helmeted figures representing those making some effort to protect themselves while fighting amidst the swirling cavalry melees. (All Swedish musketeers were meant to wear helmets but it seems that most did without what must have seemed an unnecessary encumbrance for most of the time during a campaign.) 

On the wargames table

Having a larger number of smaller units, compared to the more conventionally organised infantry (with a single pike block and two wings of musket), needs a better level of command, and the small units can be brittle.  However the Swedish brigades are very flexible, difficult to outflank, and can out manoeuvre more unwieldy opponents.  It produces a very interesting asymmetry between the Imperial and Swedish foot that can spice up a Pike and Shotte game.

To represent the more experienced of the Swedish brigades at Lutzen (such as the Old Blue and Yellow brigades) I have experimented with adding P&S special rules such Drilled, Stubborn, and Salvo.  Other brigades, which fielded more men than the Old Blue, will also have larger, and potentially more, component units.

The commanded shot and light guns supporting the cavalry can be effective, but seem to be often left behind by their commanders in wargames who, at Lutzen, are in a hurry to capitalise on the Imperial weakness in cavalry numbers early in the battle before they are reinforced.  

I would be interested in any other ideas people have for representing the Swedish brigades on the table top.

Until next time!

Andy @ FOGH 


Saturday, 31 October 2020

Turning the Tables

 In this blog post I explain how I have tried to ‘turn-the-tables’ on 2020 and bring wargaming home!

The very thing that I have been missing - classic 28mm action on the table top.

Needing to ‘social distance during the pandemic must have affected every wargamer’s hobbying by now.  For me it has curtailed regular club gaming.  Actually playing the games may only be a small proportion of my overall hobby time but it is a pretty critical part.  I think a lot of my motivation to paint etc. comes from the thought of getting the miniatures on to the tabletop and playing games.  I have been missing tabletop action more and more as the months have gone by.  

I started thinking about the possibility of setting up a wargames table at home. My ideal would be a 8’ x 6’ surface.  I worked out that I could fit something of this size in our garage, previously used for rather disorganised storage.  Following agreement with the family, the garage was duly tidied up (including many trips to the council recycling centre!) and two workbench style tables purchased.  The tables I found are from Arbor Garden Solutions that I discovered while googling for tables.  

The delivered, flat pack, components.

Their extendable workbench (https://arborgardensolutions.co.uk/wooden-mdf-top-extendable.html) looked like it would provide the right combination of sturdiness, space, and adaptability.  I had no experience of this company, but the online reviews I could find looked promising, and so I jumped in and ordered two 8’ x 2’ work benches (with 1’ extending wings, and wheels).  They arrived in about a week (despite their website’s warning of potential Covid related delays) in their flat pack form.

All screws provided, but you’ll need something to screw them in with!

Arbor have some super useful videos showing how their products are put together. With these, and my very basic DIY skills, I was able to build the two workbenches in an hour or so.  (These are sturdy items and so I did need a hand to turn the finished tables the right way up!). With the extendable sections collapsed, there is still plenty of room to move around the tables.  The storage underneath the worktop surface was very helpful, and the wheels make the tables easy to move about if need be (as well as making the tables a bit taller, and therefor easier on the old back!).  

Table surrounded with the inevitable family ‘stuff’ that needed to be allowed for.

With the extendable sections up, and the two workbenches together, there is a very useful 2400mm x 2000mm flat surface. (Note that although advertised using Imperial ‘feet’, the workbenches are, I suppose, made from metric materials and therefore end up a bit bigger.)  The family all approve, and they are now all thinking of lots of other hobby related activities that they can also use this large table space for. All good, as it helps realise the final ‘business case’!

The extended surface.
Wings down, still a useful 8’ x 4’ 6” surface.

Half-term holiday at home provided the ideal opportunity to try out some games on the new ‘table’.  I have had my 28mm TYW Swedish and Imperial armies out, and played a couple of very enjoyable games, both solo and with the family. Being able to leave a game out and return to it at a later time is a great advantage.  I am also looking forward to being able to try out some other pike and shot rules systems, on my own, using full size armies.  This sort of activity is never a good use of time at the club, but will suit a home games table very well.  I may even be able to photograph a couple of battle reports for the blog.

Terrain and figures getting some use at home!

So, while I still look forward to returning to the fun of club gaming, I now have another outlet for tabletop gaming.


Until next time!

Andy @ FoGH.